Back to School (But the Fish Kind)
Welcome to Pico
I have a limited amount of Wi-Fi available on the island of Pico, so this post will need to consist only of what I can write and edit in an hour (while also enjoying a coffee and slice of cake).
I finished up my time on Sao Miguel with many new contacts - so many interesting people from all over. A few of them will continue to live vicariously through me as I travel and they head back to normalcy. My last big adventure on Sao Miguel was an offshore dive to the waters close to Santa Maria, where I was fortunate enough to dive with many beautiful and huge manta rays in crystal clear water.
It was totally worth almost 5 hours on a small inflatable motor boat.
Throughout my time abroad, it has been a constant refrain that a sabbatical is such a great idea, and “I should totally do that”, and “I would totally do that if I could.” It reminds me of how fortunate I am - I would have put myself in that same “if I could” category had I not been able to assure my teaching position upon my return.
But, I also think that this is something that more people could do - certainly not everyone, especially those with kids. There’s really nothing that special about me. I’m just an American who can use Google and is slowly becoming more comfortable with the idea of improvised travel.
Take this trip to Pico (which was never on the agenda). I had two weeks after my stay on Sao Miguel to kill before meeting up with my friends in Lisbon. So, I looked into going to other islands, and Pico jumped out as a hiking and diving paradise. After being thoroughly repulsed by the prices of Airbnbs and hotels, I settled on a public campground in Lajes, a truly tiny town on the water. I didn’t even book anything; I just showed up and asked where I could set up my tent. It’s a gorgeous place, and I’m glad to be here (as are the ants that I can’t seem to keep out of my tent).
The thing is - this isn’t so different from a random camping trip I would take in the U.S. String enough of these together, back-to-back, and you’ve got yourself a sabbatical. I almost dislike summarizing this year under one word. Because, really, all I’m doing is staying on the move, searching for deals and opportunities, and trying my best to live outside my comfort zone (which I’ve succeeded in here on Pico more than elsewhere - see the previous comment about my tent and ants). I’ve recently become familiar with the term “Digital Nomad,” used to describe people who can work from anywhere and take “anywhere” extremely seriously. I don’t think I would yet classify myself this way - I don’t know that I could ever feel settled being so unmoored. But, what a nice thought to be nomadic and secure at the same time.
Last week, I wrote about my encounter with an octopus who held my hand. Today, on two shore dives, I met two more octopi: a small one who crawled up my hand, and a huge one who tolerated me but clearly wanted nothing to do with me (easily the largest octopus I’ve ever seen - bigger than the one at the Atlanta Aquarium!). That’s an experience that will never get old - the feeling of alien-like tentacles shaking my hand, all while the creature gracefully shifts colors from dark to light and back to dark again. What’s more: I found those two octopi myself - no guide needed. My diving friends called me the “Octopus Whisperer” (which sounds much more charming in their heavy German accents).
The picture above was taken just after I finished setting up my tent at the Lajes campground. I’ve seen my fair share of sunsets in my fair share of places. I don’t know that any really compare with that one - partially because the setting is undeniably gorgeous, but also because, for whatever reason, my arrival at the third stop of this trip felt different to me. I felt like a true nomad, like someone who could really do this crazy thing. I was thinking about all the stories I’ve already collected, and the many more still to come. I was thinking about the people who have shown me kindness. I was thinking about how nice it is to have people and things to miss. I was thinking about the mistakes that I have already made (like when I misheard the bus driver in Sao Miguel and offered him 20 euros instead of 1.20 euros - thank goodness he wasn’t the thieving type, because I would be out 18.80 euros) and how they have added to, rather than detracted from, this experience.
That’s the thing about camping - it gives you ample time to think, for better or worse. For the next week, I’ll be rising and setting with the sun, only using internet when I’m in this little cafe, and filling my days with pure exploration - the jungle-y, bush-whack-y kind.
So, rest assured that if you are reading this, I am thinking of you too. I may just be the luckiest person out there, and you are much the reason why.
All the best, and until next time,
Ethan